PLANTING CONTAINER GROWN PLANTS – Unless the container is one of the plantable types, always remove the plant from the container. The planting hole should be twice as wide as the root ball and the same depth as the root ball. If the soil has poor structure add a soil conditioner like ground pine bark mulch. Set plant at same level it was growing in container or higher. If roots of plant are pot bound, make 3 or 4 slits with a knife down sides of root ball. Fill in around roots with soil, bark mixture. Water heavily to remove any air pockets around the roots. Mulch with pine straw or other mulching material to hold moisture in the soil. In poorly drained soil, rototill the bed and plant high or install French drains and berms. Bring in good topsoil and mulch well.

REMOVE FLOWER SEEDS – As you make the rounds of your garden, clip away faded flowers of plants that make seed including crepe myrtle & rhododendron to help develop more flower buds for next seasons bloom.

DIG FLOWER BULBS As soon as foliage dies down, dig tulips. Dutch iris, narcissus, and other hardy bulbs. Divide and replant bulbs immediately, or store in a cool, dry place and plant them this fall. It isn’t necessary to dig them up each year, but at least take them up and divide often enough to keep them from becoming root bound.

MAKE A CRITICAL SURVEY OF YOUR LANDSCAPE now that deciduous trees and shrubs are in leaf. Note if you seem to have too much, or too little, by way of plantings. Late this fall, or during the winter months, you can add to or subtract from plantings. Remove dead/dying wood from trees at this time.

SUMMER PRUNING – For bushy well-shaped plants that bloom profusely, prune shrubs as they grow. Prune by cutting or pinching out growing tips to make vigorous new shoots from several branches. In June, summer prune abelia, forsythia, privets, mock orange, deutzia, althea, bush honeysuckle, weigelia and euonymus.

PRUNE CLIMBING ROSES after they bloom: fertilize at that time.

WARM SEASON SOD REPLACEMENT. Now is the time to replace any warm season turf that has suffered disease or cold damage. Sod can be purchased in rolls or square pieces. Cut the damaged area out with a shovel and lay the new sod in the hole. Water the sod heavily one time. Then keep the sod moist until the root system takes hold and can support itself.

TOP DRESS WARM SEASON TURF with about 1 lb. of nitrogen per 1000 sq. feet. The extra nitrogen will help the turf grow during its optimum growing months of June, July, and August.

USE GOLF TEES TO FIND OR MARK LOCATION of spring bulbs or dormant plants.

NOW’S THE TIME TO:

1. Snap off growing tips of your chrysanthemum plants when they’re about 6 inches tall. They’ll branch and bloom more profusely. Also side dress with fertilizer (bone meal and compost).
2. Feed nandinas with a complete fertilizer (8-8-8) so their bright berries will last through winter,
3. Encircle lilacs with a complete fertilizer, rake it in and water thoroughly.
4. Stake and tie brittle, new clematis stalks. Prune clematis after they bloom.
5. Stake dahlias when you plant them so they’ll have support later and will not be damaged by staking after plants have grown large.
6. Keep all old flower blooms cut from annuals. This enables plants to produce more blooms for a longer period.
7. Start stem cuttings of geraniums, leaf cuttings of succulents to be potted and used as house plants over-winter. Use equal parts of peatmoss and perlite as a medium.
8. Mulch azaleas, gardenias and camellias with 2 to 3 inches of leafmold or peat moss.
9. Transplant seedlings of annuals such as marigolds and zinnias if the stands are too thick. Give all annual plants plenty of space to develop by thinning and transplanting.

WEED IN THE COOL-COOL-COOL OF THE EVENING – If weeds have grown so large that pulling them will disturb roots of nearby garden plants, do the weeding in late afternoon or in cloudy weather. By so doing, you give nearby injured or disturbed plants time to repair the damage before they again face the hot summer sun.

EXCEPTIONAL PLANTS TO PLANT FOR FALL COLOR:

Chrysanthemums – an excellent perennial flower for fall color. Plant rooted cuttings in flower beds, planters, or tubs on patio. Pinch out the tips of garden mums to encourage lower, compact plants with many flowers.

Copper P1ant (Acalypha) – a bronze or copper-colored plant that thrives in full sun. Needs winter protection.

Alternanthera (Joseph’s Coat) – a low, creeping annual that is very colorful in summer and fall.

Impatiens and Coleus – annuals of many different colors. Plant in partial shade.

Flowering cabbage (kale), Ornamental peppers, and Jerusalem cherries are tender annuals grown from seed in the spring. (Keep away from children).

Daylilies – Tubers of daylilies (hemerocallis) may be planted at almost anytime of year but “take” well when planted in early spring or late summer. Stems vary in height from 6 inches to 6 feet. By selecting varieties that bloom at different times, you can have flowers all summer. Leave tubers in the ground until they become crowded – usually 3 – 4 years. Daylily proliferations are those grass-like stalks. They may be pulled off and rooted in moist sand for more plants of good varieties you wish to multiply.

Pansy seed – Late in July, place pansy seed in the refrigerator (not home freezer) for 10 – 14 days. Then plant in flats or plant bed outdoors.

SHADE TREES MAY NEED MORE WATER. Shade trees in declining health may simply be thirsty. Most of the water should be placed at the outer reaches of the root system where the small root hairs which take up the soil moisture are located. When you water a tree, water deeply – apply sufficient water so the soil is quite moist to a depth of at least one foot.

BAGWORMS ON EVERGREENS Hand pick the bags (or use Dipel spray).

ROOT CUTTINGS OF AZALEA, CAMELLIA, AND HOLLY. Use a soil mix of equal parts peat moss and either perlite or sand.

GIVE LANDSCAPE PLANTS A SECOND feeding of fertilizer to increase size.

STOP PINCHING chrysanthemums mid-July.

REMEMBER TO CHANGE directions when mowing lawn,

PINCH BACK old bloom heads of rhododendrons.

BLOSSOM END ROT on tomatoes? Too little water or too little lime may be the reason.

STAKE TALL flowers or vegetables.

REMOVE last vestiges of daffodil foliage.

DEADHEAD annuals. (Pick off dead blooms)

WATCH FOR WHITEFLIES – Control with malathion, insecticidal soap, or summer oil. Repeat application at least once a week.

PRUNE bleeder trees such as maple, dogwood, birch, and elm. Prune hedges as needed.

WATERING – Remember to give a thorough soaking when you water shrubs, flowers, or lawns. Frequent sprinklings can do more harm than good. You want to encourage the growth of a deep root system. When watering shrubs during dry periods of summer and fall, be sure to apply enough water so moisture will move downward to root system. It is helpful to make a 3 – 4 inch mound of soil about 18 – 24 inches outward from shrubs. Let water flood inside mound and soak downward to roots. If you use overhead irrigation on shrubs apply water at some time other than late afternoon because moisture on leaves overnight may encourage disease growth.

MULCHING – Mulching of shrubs and young trees can be very important in hot, dry weather. Shallow roots are protected from the sun, moisture is conserved, weeds and grasses are controlled with a good mulch. A 3 – 4 inch layer of pine straw, oak leaves, peat moss, or leaf mold will help to grow strong, healthy plants.

TRANSPLANT IRIS AND DAYLILY – August is a good month in which to transplant iris and daylily. By doing so now, new transplants will have time to become well established before cold weather.

FALL CONDITIONING is a term gardeners are beginning to hear. It involves the use of high potash and phosphate fertilizer (no nitrogen) to slow down growth and harden plants for winter. Camellias, gardenias, azaleas, and sometimes boxwoods are fed in August with such as a 0-14-14 fertilizer to toughen them up so they are less likely to he injured by extreme winter weather.

STIMULATE WISTERIA – If you have a wisteria vine that has declined in flowering the last few years, the trouble could be excessive vegetative growth. Wisteria may be induced to bloom more freely if rampant growth is stopped now. Cut back runners and root-prune with a sharp spade. Insert the blade to its full depth in a semi-circle about 6 feet from the main stem of established plants.

SPRAY AZALEAS IN LATE AUGUST for control of lacebugs Orthenel. Two sprays at 10-day intervals are needed now and again in April.

PRUNE MAPLES, DOGWOODS, AND BIRCH at this time. Also, remove suckers and water spouts from trees.

PLANT FAIL VEGETABLES, cabbage greens, lettuce, broccoli, squash.

FERTILIZE warm season grasses – Do not fertilize shrubs.

SUBMIT soil samples so lime can be applied in fall.

FERTILIZE strawberry patch with nitrogen.

PLANT PANSY seeds in flats for landscaping in September.

TRIM YOUR RED TIP for fall color.

CHECK FOR CATERPILLARS on azaleas, cherry and pecan trees.

APPLY PRE-EMERGENT lawn killer for chickweed — balan or dacthol.

IF NEW LAWN get soil ready for new seeding in September.

KEEP AN EYE out for oakworms and sawfly larvae. Although foliage stripped from shade trees is not injurious in late summer, the worms may be a nuisance.

USE A 5-GALLON BUCKET with two 1/4″ holes in bottom to drip water young trees. Two buckets per week.

LAWN SEEDING – September is the optimum time to start seeding and renovating fescue lawns. Fertilize lawns in September, November, and February for good root growth. Turf-type fescues varieties have finer textures than K-31, are more shade tolerant and make a dense green turf. Use a slow-release lawn fertilizer in hot weather, and a seed starter fertilizer when seeding a new lawn. Liming is a must for a good lawn.

AUTUMN COLOR IDEAS – Ginkgo trees (Maidenhair trees) are becoming an important source of brilliant yellow color. Among other good choices for foliage color from trees are: Sweet Gum, Red Maple, Southern Sugar Maple Japanese Maple, Sourwood, Crepe Myrtle, and chrysanthemums, contribute much to the colorful autumn scene. As autumn merges into winter, you’ll want to accent the landscape scene with berry color from such plants as pyracantha, nandina, viburnum, beautyberry, and many of the holly group. The ever-popular shade-loving aucuba has a dwarf form which appears to be more reliable regarding berry production. Don’t forget the brilliant red foliage of the burning bush (euonymous alata) or rabbiteye blueberries.

BULB PLANTING – If you are planning spring color from bulbs, now’s the time to order for late October and November plantings. For best landscape effect, plant groups of bulbs in between shrubs, or scatter bulbs in wooded areas to naturalize them; avoid planting in straight lines. Use a bulb fertilizer.

FRUIT TREES – Many well planned landscapes include fruit trees as seasonal accents to the front or side yard. A flowering pear, peach, apple, crabapple, or cherry is every bit as showy as a flowering dogwood in the spring.

GARDEN COMPOST – Of continuing importance is the gardening practice of composting leaves and other garden refuse. Never burn or throw them away. Grinders, compost hasteners, fertilizers, and lime all help to decompose the compost pile – making it available for garden use next spring,

CONTROLLING BLUEGRASS AND CHICKWEED is made simple by using pre-emergent herbicides applied in mid-September in the lawn and shrub plantings.

OVERSEED WARM SEASON GRASSES with rye grass in late September.

PLANT PANSIES and flowering kale/cabbage for fall color.

LATE IN MONTH divide peonies. Cover their buds with 2 Inches of soil, then mulch.

CONTINUE spraying roses.

COLLECT DRY SEED PODS, unusual leaves, rose hips, etc. for dry arrangements. Air dry those materials in a cool, dark location.

TREAT LAWNS FOR GRUBS. More than 5 grubs per square foot indicates a serious problem. Fall applications are preferred to spring treatments,

TIME TO PLANT EVERGREEN TREES AND SHRUBS Fall is a good time to plant and transplant evergreen trees and shrubs. This transplant season extends through the winter months. In selecting evergreens, be certain to allow space for maturity. A common mistake is in placing a large or fast growing evergreen in a position where there is not enough room for full height and spread.

PUTTING THE GARDEN TO BED FOR THE WINTER – Prevent many of next year’s insect and disease problems by thoroughly cleaning debris out of the garden. Pull out all annuals that have completed their life cycle. Cut away all tops of perennials. Remove debris from beneath all plants including shrubs. Get your soil tested. A nematode assay may be useful to vegetable gardeners.

ROOT CUTTINGS Most flowering shrubs can be propagated by means of hardwood cuttings. Make cuttings of mature wood 6 – 8 inches long. Dip basal ends in a rooting hormone. Set them in well amended garden soil, leaving about 2 inches above ground. Or, place cuttings in large nursery cans. Keep cuttings moist till rooted.

FLOWERING QUINCE (Japanese quince) bears fruit which can be made into preserves. Pyracantha and eleaegnus are also edible.

PRUNING – It is always the right time to prune out deadwood or diseased wood from shrubs, roses, shade trees. To insure quick healing, never cut beyond the bark ridge.

BEARDED IRIS – For success, have good drainage, good soil, sunshine, clean cultivation (weed and grass free) and frequent resetting for larger and finer blooms.

STORING BULBS – Five common flower garden plants – dahlia, canna, caladium, gladiolus, and tuberous begonia – may not overwinter – so to save the plants, dig roots, tubers, or corms of these about the time of our first killing frost. They may be dug just after foliage dries. Dig deep enough so that part of the plant will not be snapped off when lifted out of the soil. Leave soil around dahlia tubers, canna, and caladium roots.

Store in a garage or other building until soil dries and falls away from plant parts. Shake soil off roots and tubers, and cut away dried stem. Discard immediately any plant parts that show soft spots or disease.

Place tubers and roots in old sawdust or peat moss – in a flat box or plastic bag with holes for ventilation. Store in a dry, cool place such as a basement. Do not store on back parch or in garage. These plants cannot withstand freezing. Also, store away horn danger of being eaten by rats, squirrels, etc.

HOUSEPLANTS – Bring houseplants indoors when temperatures dip below 50 degrees F. Give them a good bath in soapy water or spray with Safer soap. Bring herb pots indoors.

SET POINSETTIA in a dark place for blooms by Christmas.

HARVEST SUNFLOWERS when back of heads are yellow. Leave a foot of stem on each head and hang to dry in a bird-insect free spot.

SOW SEEDS OF hardy annuals (larkspur, poppy, Drummon phlox, cornflower, etc.) where they are to bloom.

OCTOBER IS A PERFECT MONTH to get construction done. Build walks, arbors, terraces, and fencing during the fine Indian summer weather.

CONSIDER COMPOSTING YOUR LEAVES for your garden. (See April for compost bin diagram)

SELECT AND PLANT TREES AND SHRUBS for a permanent home landscape. Don’t scatter plantings at random, it’s much better to have a planting guide. A simple map locating trees, shrubs, and yard features will do. Do a thorough site analysis.

Spend some time browsing at the County Library for landscaping ideas. You will find many excellent gardening books in the library. Consider a planting plan from a landscape designer.

HELP LANDSCAPE PLANTS ESCAPE COLD DAMAGE. In order to aid plants in escaping cold damage, it is wise to keep in mind that a healthy well-fed plant will stand the most cold weather. Plants should enter winter free of diseases and nematode damage.

Be sure not to feed plants too late in the season, as this often forces tender growth that is subject to winter kill. Never fertilize with quickly-available nitrogen in late summer.

Select varieties that are hardy to Forsyth County area.

Protect plants from prevailing cold winds. A fence or tall evergreen hedge of trees or shrubs gives good protection to tender landscape plants.

Use hose sections on guide wires of newly planted trees, so the wires wi11 not damage the trunks in windy weather.

During severe freezes, plants that freeze and thaw slowly will be damaged the least, thus the north side of a building, with a lot of shade, is the best for tender plants. Consider a wind screen of burlap or cheesecloth for tender plants.

WHEN YOU PRUNE, keep n wind that shearing destroys the natural shape of many shrubs. To reduce size and produce more compact growth, cut out undesirable longer limbs from inside the plant. Do not cut all limbs at the same height.

AFTER THE FIRST KILLING FROST, it is time to mulch shrubs, perennials, and herbs for winter protection. Winter mulch should not be heavy or dense.

BRING IN GERANIUMS BEFORE FROST. Overwinter them in pots or bare root in paper bags. They should be allowed to become somewhat dry before being watered.

PLANT SPRING FLOWERING BULBS. Use a bulb fertilizer in the bed.

COOL DAYS are excellent times for landscape construction projects like decks, walks, and fences. Avoid soil contact with untreated wood.

COLLECT SOIL for testing. Kits are available at the County Extension Office and some local garden shops. Reports return promptly when mailed to the lab in the fall months.

APPLY lime to vegetable garden if needed.

COLLECT unusual twigs for dry arrangements.

APPLY lime to lilacs.

WINTERIZE YOUR MOWER by first disconnecting the spark plug wire. Drain out all the gasoline and oil, and replace the old oil with fresh oil. Spray paint under the clean deck to prevent rust remove and clean the air filter. Pull the spark plug before storing for the winter. Check for carbon build-up, and replace it needed.

KEEP YOUR SHEARS AND LOPPERS in good working order. Wipe them with a rag dipped in paint thinner to remove sticky resins. Sharpen and oil thoroughly.

SPRING BULBS grow best at approximately 55 degrees, so keep potted narciasus, tulips, and other bulbs away from vents or other heat sources.

WEED OUT “WEED” TREES AND SHRUBS – “Weed” trees and shrubs are often a serious menace to shrub plantings. Among them are seedling elm, hackberry, plum, and ligustrum. These often grow unnoticed until they have crowded valuable shrubs. Pull or dig such from all plantings.

CARE OF BALLED-AND-BURLAPPED PLANTS AFTER PURCHASE. When transplanting balled-and-burlapped plants, lift by the ball of soil – don’t use the trunk or stems as a handle because the soil will break away from the roots. Balled plants should be kept watered to prevent drying out during the period before it is planted. If it cannot be planted immediately, it is good to “heel in” plants in a temporary location. “Heeling in” is when you dig a trench, lay the plants at 45 degree angle and place soil over root ball. This provides a more even soil moisture as well as preventing the root system from freezing during the periods of low temperatures.

SPRING FLOWERING BULBS – Reminder – if you have not planted those spring flowering bulbs, better get at it, and always plant quality bulbs. Pansy plants set among bulbs will produce a fine effect, and won’t harm the bulbs a bit.

TREAT HOLIDAY GREENS – Anti-desiccants, used to prevent cold damage to shrubs, also are useful in preventing the quick-drying of cut greens used in Christmas decorations. Any greens that are not used with their stems in water (such as wreaths, garlands, swags) will last longer if they are sprayed with one of the anti-desiccants like Wilt-Pruf.

LATE FALL WATERING OF EVERGREENS – Only a short time need be spent in preparing deciduous and evergreen plants to withstand winter damage. They havoc reaped from frozen ground, winter winds, and burning sun, can be your greatest problem in preventing a healthy and trouble-free landscape next year. Plants are winter-killed or damaged due to a lack of water at the root level. Dead plants in early spring are obvious symptoms of winter injury. Winter sun and wind often cause brown leaves or large dead areas in evergreens such as junipers and yews, as well as rhododendrons and other broad-leaved evergreens. Evergreens should be well-watered before the ground has frozen. This helps them withstand the undesirable growing conditions of drought and water shortages during winter months.

CLEAN BIRD FEEDERS monthly with hot sudsy water to prevent the spread of wild bird diseases.

BUY YOUR CHRISTMAS TREE EARLY! – By following these suggestions, you can reduce the risk of a fire hazard in the home:

1. Keep the tree in a shady location outdoors or in an unheated room.
2. Re-cut the butt of the tree making a diagonal cut at a 45 degree angle.
3. Place the butt in a container of water and maintain the water level until bringing indoors for decorating. While indoors, keep watered at all times.

CONSIDER GIVING a good gardening book or accessory as a Christmas gift! Or make ornaments out of pinecones, sweet gum balls, crape myrtle seed pods.

MAKE PAPER diagram of vegetable garden.

AS CHRYSANTHEMUMS die back, prune to ground level.

MULCH STRAWBERRY BEDS for winter protection.

RECYCLE CHRISTMAS TREES:

– The city pickup will chip up the trees

– Use boughs to protect tender plants/mulch with branches

– Use the trees for a bird feeding station

– The trunks can serve as garden stakes for tomatoes or for a child’s trellis for beans or “pea tree”